Think about how often you will open the safe, the swing of its door, and nearby visibility. A corner behind a closet panel often balances accessibility with concealment and deters curious visitors.
Prepare a hand truck, moving straps, shims, a torpedo level, masking tape, and felt pads. Add a hammer drill for concrete, a sharp wood bit set, magnetic nut drivers, and a reliable pencil.
Gather the Right Tools and Hardware
Select wedge anchors for solid concrete, sleeve anchors for brick or block, and lag bolts with washers for wood. Match diameters to manufacturer holes, and always account for edge distances recommended in manuals.
Anchor Securely: Concrete, Wood, and Stud Options
Concrete floor anchoring, step by step
With the safe positioned, mark holes, roll the safe aside, and drill to specified depth using a carbide bit. Vacuum dust, return the safe, insert wedge anchors, and tighten gradually with crossed torque patterns.
Wood floor or platform anchoring
Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent splitting, add large washers, and drive structural lag bolts to manufacturer torque. If spans are long, sister joists beneath the platform to stiffen everything and distribute dynamic load.
Anchoring into wall studs for compact safes
Small steel safes anchor well into studs using long lag screws. Hit two studs, not drywall alone. Post your stud spacing in the comments, and we will recommend ideal fastener lengths and washers.
Test for racking and pry resistance
Try a gentle diagonal pull on the door, confirm even gaps, and ensure bolts extend fully without scraping. If anything binds, loosen slightly, adjust shims, and retighten. Tell us what improved your feel.
Add a desiccant canister or dehumidifier rod, wipe inside metal with a light silicone cloth, and avoid chlorine cleaners. Your future self will thank you when hinges stay silent and surfaces remain spotless.